Sunday, December 23, 2007

MERRY CHRISTMAS!




Part of the Doha skyline

Dhow cruise

Museum of Islamic Art






Andy (Santa), Grant and I at Embassy Christmas Party
Took a Dhow Lunch Cruise on Saturday with some friends (about 25 of us had the entire boat to ourselves). Had a good time! The museum is scheduled to open in March 2008. Hope it is good (Qatar could use a good museum). Note the construction cranes in the Doha skyline - no exaggeration to say that the entire country is under construction.
Merry Christmas everyone!

Saturday, December 22, 2007

A DIFFERENT VIEW OF THE WORLD

The following, which I lifted from qatarliving.com, does a great job of explaining a fundamental difference between our cultures. I admit to being one of the Westerners impatient with the "Inshaallah" concept. But know that the belief system you are born into is the lens through which you view the entire world (I once wrote a Master's Thesis on this subject). It's hard to look at the world through someone else's lens, but useful to at least recognize that others may see the same world in a very different way, and why.

from qatarliving.com "I think that in order to appreciate the ways in which religion permeates every aspect of life in the Middle East, the concept of “Inshaallah” is a good place to start.I have spent around ten years on the Arabian peninsula, working a long way from home, and I think it has taken me this long to understand the Arabic concept of “Inshaallah” and the fatalistic concept of life and death that prevails in that desert kingdom. About a year ago, a Saudi I knew well died in a car crash. He wasn’t wearing a seat belt and was precipitated out of the back seat of a car his friend was driving head first through the windscreen. The others in the car survived because they had been wearing seat belts. However, on offering condolences, I heard the same point of view repeated time and time again. “There was nothing anyone could have done. ‘Inshaallah.’ It was God’s will: his time had come.” Of course, this totally ignored the fact that the victim had decided not to take a basic safety precaution.First, what does “Inshaallah” mean? The usual translation given is “God Willing.” However, “Inshaallah” goes a lot further than that. It includes the idea that we are all at the mercy of God or Allah in every moment of our lives. “Will the plane come on time?” “Yes…Inshaallah.” “Will I get the money tomorrow?” “Of course…Inshaallah.”Confused people from the west often ask: “Does Inshaallah mean ‘yes’ or ‘no’ ?” There is no simple answer to this question as it is genuinely difficult to interpret “Inshaallah’s” extreme ambiguity. Sometimes it is used to take the wind out of the sails of an “arrogant” westerner who seems too businesslike and purposeful for the fatalistic Arabic mentality. “Please deliver this package by 1 p.m. tomorrow.” “Inshaallah,” comes the inevitable response, intoned as a clear rebuke to someone who has forgotten that God can upset our plans at any moment.I suppose, that in the western world we more or less believe our fate is in our own hands. Indeed it is a philosophy and way of thinking that has served us very well and has thrusted us technologically far ahead of more traditional and overtly religious societies.In Saudi Arabia, which has one of the highest occurrences of road death in the world, each new statistic tends to be written off as the inevitable will of God: his time had come and so he died. No one could have stopped it. The particular conditions that came together to cause a death were secondary in causal terms. The essential and profound reason for the death was that Allah had decided to take back a soul. Of course, in these circumstances, diatribes on road safety tend to fall on deaf ears. Even the gory piles of mangled metal and human flesh that I have often seen on the Saudi highways do not provide any serious reconsideration or deterrent.Between pious Muslims, “Inshaallah” is a way of displaying a deep faith in Allah and his immanence in all material phenomena. They could agree with John Lennon that life is what happens to you, “while you’re busy making other plans.” A good Arabian Muslim should always bear in mind that the will of God might be different to his own personal wishes.The traditional westerner’s response to “Inshaallah” is one of impatience and contempt. There is the strong idea that lazy people are excusing their own incompetence and lack of ability by some spurious reference to the will of God. However, this point of view if expressed directly will deeply offend a pious Muslim. He will speak of the arrogant westerner who ignores the power and influence of God who is immanent in everything. The first cause of all things. The Prime Mover, who remains Himself forever unmoved. The West needs to comprehend this fundamental belief in the Arab world in order to come to any clear understanding of the Muslim Arab mentality"

Saturday, December 15, 2007

CHRISTMAS IN QATAR


Went to an Embassy Christmas Party this weekend. Party attendees included 3 camels, 2 horses and various humans, including Santa Claus. (looked everywhere for three wise men, but couldn't find even one! Ha! ha! Sorry, couldn't resist that one.) Photo is Erin riding a horse, with the Embassy in the background.
Andy is Santa today for an office party. I drove him to work this morning dressed in the red suit. Had a few smiles and stares from other drivers on the road, and the gate guards got a kick out of it. I am in charge of Erin's class Christmas party tomorrow (Monday), which is also the last day of school before Winter Break. The kids get 3 weeks off from school. Do have a few things planned....there is another Christmas Party on Monday night (Andy will be donning the red suit again), a party at the Singing Sand Dunes on Friday, and a Dhow (boat) lunch cruise on Saturday. Will have a few people over for Christmas dinner, and am organizing a New Year's Eve party on the compound.
Have to give the Qataris this - they have religious tolerance. Christmas decorations are up in the stores, and are for sale. We have an 8 foot, blow up, Frosty the Snowman in front of our villa - no complaints on that either (though we are mostly Westerners here). Only problem is that it tends to get windy, and Frosty blows over. Often times the gate guards will right him for us.
Problem right now is the total lack of eggs in this country! Qatar imports most of its eggs from Saudia Arabia and India. Both countries have experience an outbreak of bird flu (among birds, not humans) so imports are banned. Eggs are trickling in from South America. I would be happy to buy those eggs (even though they are expensive) if I could find them! Bakeries here have had to shut down - including my own Christmas Cookie bakery. Oh well - I will just have to make more rum balls (don't require eggs!).
Merry Christmas!

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

DRIVING IN QATAR

This bulletin, from the US Embassy, says it all. It took me 2 months to get "comfortable" with driving here. I say "comfortable" because driving is still very stressful - other drivers can be very aggressive, and often behave as if they do not understand the rules of the road, and/or do not have any common sense.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Qatar is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance.
Short-term visitors should obtain a valid International Driving Permit prior to arrival and may not drive in Qatar on a valid U.S. driver’s license. New residents should obtain a Qatari driver’s license as soon as possible upon arrival. Traffic accidents are Qatar’s leading cause of death. Safety regulations in Qatar are not consistent with U.S. standards, and informal rules of the road and local customs often prove frustrating for first-time visitors. The combination of Qatar’s extensive use of roundabouts, many road construction projects and the high speeds at which many drivers travel can prove challenging. Despite aggressive driving on Qatar’s roads, drivers should avoid altercations or arguments over traffic incidents, particularly with Qatari citizens who, if insulted, have filed complaints with local police that resulted in the arrest and overnight detention of U.S. citizens. Drivers can be held liable for injuries to other persons involved in a vehicular accident, and local police have detained U.S. citizens overnight until the extent of the person’s injuries were known. The rate of automobile accidents due to driver error and excessive speed is higher than in the United States. In rural areas, poor lighting, wandering camels and un-shouldered roads are other hazards.

Monday, December 10, 2007











QATAR FORT
These forts aren't "real" - they are movie sets built north of Doha in the desert. They are now tourist attractions (yes, this does say something about the number of tourist attractions in Qatar!).
Anyway, we spent a pleasant afternoon visiting these sites and watching the beautiful sunset. One thing I didn't get a photo of is the ostriches. This area is an ostrich "farm" and they run free. We could see them from a distance. When Andy and Grant came Boy Scout camping here Thanksgiving weekend the ostriches came much closer to their group - so close that the boys had to change their hiking route (you want to give ostriches their space!).
Just outside the large fort I stopped to take a photo and the rest of the group went on. A car full of Qatari women(in full abayas - long black robes and veils - you could only see their eyes) motioned to me and said, in English, "Hello - come here." I went over to the car and said "hello" - more Qatari women came up on foot. A few of them spoke English and they asked me if I liked Doha and where I was from. This was an unusual experience for me. I have been in Qatar 3 /12 months and have been spoken to by exactly 2 Qatari women. They asked if they could take my picture - I said yes and immediately they started clicking with cell phone cameras and a video camera. Then, the old lady in the group said something to one of the girls in the car. The girl pulled out a spare veil and handed it to the old woman. She took it and motioned that I should put it on - I kept smiling but said No. The woman was insistent, she said "here, better this way" (which one could take as an insult) and pushed the veil at me. I kept smiling and saying No. She then (gently) took me by the arm, removed my sunglasses, and pushed the veil at me. I (gently) took back my sunglasses and backed away. She followed me with the veil. I then told her "I will put it on if you take yours off." I don't know if she understood that, but I think some of the younger women did. Anyway - with that comment I said "goodybye" turned around and left.
I rejoined my family, who watched the whole thing from a distance. Unfortunately I had the camera so no one got a picture of me with the ladies. I made sure I stayed close to Grant when we passed by them to leave, and they ignored me because they wouldn't want/aren't allowed to interact with a strange man.
So - women out there - what would you have done? I really don't know what the intention was of these women, or whether they all had the same intention. Did they want to get a before and after picture - me without the veil and then with it? Would they have laughed if I put it on? Did I insult them by not putting it on? Would any of them like to refuse the veil? I don't know. Our cultures are so different, especially when it comes to male-female relations and their roles in society. What do you think?
Still without a veil (though I could use one on bad hair days!),
CB